I spent three days on El Hierro, the smallest of the main Canary Islands, exploring the island by rental car from a base near La Frontera. Known for its rugged landscapes, dramatic viewpoints, and remote atmosphere, El Hierro feels noticeably quieter and less developed than the other Canary Islands.

Weather during my visit was quite mixed, with clouds and fog often covering the higher elevations, though the lower coastal areas still offered impressive scenery.

Eastern El Hierro - Las Playas and Valverde

After arriving in the late morning, I first drove south toward the Las Playas valley, one of the island’s most striking landscapes where steep cliffs drop dramatically toward the ocean. Photo stops near the Parador de El Hierro and Punta de la Bonanza offered impressive views of the coastline.

On the way back I stopped in Tamaduste, a small coastal village known for its natural swimming pools, before continuing to the island’s capital Villa de Valverde. A short walk through the town included the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción, one of the historic landmarks of the island.

From Valverde I set out for a longer loop hike toward the legendary Árbol Garoé, a sacred tree for the island’s indigenous Bimbache people, once believed to capture water from the clouds. Unfortunately most of the hike took place in dense fog, which limited the views considerably.

The Wild West - Orchilla and the End of the World

The following day focused on the remote western part of El Hierro, an area with very little settlement and some of the island’s most dramatic scenery.

After starting in El Golfo with a scenic coastal walk from La Punta to La Maceta, I visited the nearby Ecomuseum of Guinea, which combines a historic stone village with a lava tube cave and a conservation center for the island’s unique giant lizard species.

From there I drove through the largely uninhabited western tip of the island with several stops along the way. Highlights included Arenas Blancas, the viewpoint Mirador de Lomo Negro, and the historic Faro de Orchilla. Nearby stands the Meridian Zero Monument, marking the historical reference point of the prime meridian used before Greenwich became the global standard.

The route continued past the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Reyes, an important pilgrimage site on the island, from where I did a short hike to El Sabinar, famous for its wind-shaped juniper trees. From Mirador de Bascos, the cliffs offer sweeping views over the El Golfo valley below.

Southern Coast and Forest Trails

The final day explored the southern volcanic landscapes.

I began in La Restinga, the island’s southernmost village, known as a diving destination and gateway to the 2011 submarine volcanic eruption offshore. A short drive further brought me to Playa de Tacorón, a peaceful natural swimming area surrounded by volcanic rock formations.

On the way back toward the island’s interior I stopped at the Volcanological Interpretation Center, which explains the island’s volcanic history and the recent eruption near La Restinga.

Later I explored the forested highlands on the Sendero de La Llanía, a scenic hiking route passing through laurel forest and volcanic terrain including the La Hoya de Fireba crater. Unfortunately the nearby Mirador La Llanía viewpoint was completely covered in clouds during my visit.

Before leaving the island I made final stops at Mirador de Jinama and Mirador de La Peña, spectacular viewpoints above the El Golfo valley designed by César Manrique. While clouds again severely limited the panorama, the restaurant at La Peña still provided a memorable farewell dinner high above the cliffs.

Overall Impression

El Hierro feels like the most remote and untouched of the Canary Islands, with rugged volcanic landscapes, dramatic coastal cliffs, and very few crowds. However, compared to some of the other islands, the sights are more subtle and often dependent on good weather for the best views.